HARIRA AND RAMADAN 
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The holy month of Ramadan is one of the most striking features of the Arab world. This ninth month of the Muslim year is called "the month of fasting," and not a bite of food or a drop of water is consumed between sunrise and sunset, which is announced, when it comes, by the report of a cannon. 
At the moment of sunset, Moroccans sit down to the traditional Ramadan "breakfast": harira soup, dates, mahalkra or shebbakia (Honey Cake, page 303), and coffee or milk. Harira is peppery and lemony, rich with vegetables and meat, and thickened with tedouira-a mixture of yeast or flour and water. It is always reddened with tomatoes, and sometimes enriched with beaten eggs. 
I have heard that the beaten eggs are often omitted at the royal palace in favor of a more luxurious triumph of the Moroccan kitchen: in silver egg cups sit eggshells, their tops removed, filled with eggs that have been softly scrambled with gum arabic, saffron, cumin, and salt. The diners imbibe this mixture like shots of whiskey directly from the shells, for instant nourishment and while waiting for their harira to cool down. 
Harira I 
This is a city version. 

INGREDIENTS 
1 cup chopped onion 1 cup chopped parsley 
1 tablespoon finely chopped celery leaves 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
58 Soups 

EQUIPMENT 
Large soup pot 
Mortar and pestle or electric blender 

. Working time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours Serves: 6 to 8 
1 teaspoon turmeric 
1 tablespoon smen (Cooked and Salted Butter, page 39) or 2 tablespoons fresh butter 
yz teaspoon ground cinnamon 
yz pound shoulder of lamb, in YZ-inch cubes Wings, backs and giblets of 1 chicken 
yz cup dried lentils 
2 tablespoons green coriander leaves Salt to taste 
2 pounds red, ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (see page 71), then pureed (1 tablespoon tomato paste or more is optional for less than perfect tomatoes) 
yz cup fine soup noodles 
3 tablespoons semolina or all-purpose flour mixed with yz cup water 
Lemon wedges 
1. In a large soup pot, cook the onion, parsley, celery leaves, pepper, and turmeric in the smen for about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, then add the cinnamon, lamb and chicken. Cook slowly, turning the mixture over and over until golden but not browned (about 15 to 20 minutes). 
2. Meanwhile, pick over and wash the lentils. In a mortar pound the green coriander leaves with a little salt into a paste or puree the leaves in an electric blender with a spoonful of water. Add the lentils, coriander paste, and pureed tomatoes to the pot. Cook 15 minutes over low heat, then pour in 1 Yz quarts water and cook until the lentils are soft and the soup is well blended. 
3. Five minutes before serving, salt the soup and add the noodles. Bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the flour-water mixture. Cook 3 minutes longer, stirring continuously to avoid any flour nuggets forming. Serve at once with lemon wedges. 
Note: In Marrakesh the tedouira, or flour-water mixture, used to thicken harira is prepared a day in advance so that the flour wiU ferment slightly and impart a musky flavor to the soup. 
H A R I R A 59 

Harira II 
A marvelous version from the bled (countryside), thickened with lemony eggs. 

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INGREDIENTS 
Y:z cup dried chick-peas 
1 pound lamb, trimmed and cut into Y:z-inch cubes 
1 teaspoon turmeric 
Pinch of pulverized saffron 
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 
~ teaspoon ground ginger ( optional) 
1 tablespoon smen (Cooked and Salted Butter, page 39) or 2 tablespoons sweet butter 
% cup chopped celery leaves and ribs 
2 medium yellow onions 
Y:z cup chopped parsley 
2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped ( see page 71 ) 
Salt 
% cup dried lentils 
8 small white onions 
~ cup fine soup noodles ( optional) 
2 eggs beaten with the juice of Y:z lemon Lemon slices and cinnamon for garnish 

EQUIPMENT 
Sieve 
Large soup pot with cover 
Working time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours or longer 
Serves: 8 

1. Soak the chick-peas in water to cover overnight. Drain and husk if desired. 
2. Put the lamb, spices, smen, celery, chopped onions, and parsley in the soup pot and cook, stirring, over moderately low heat for 5 minutes. Then add the tomatoes and continue cooking 10 to 15 minutes longer. Salt lightly. 3. Meanwhile, wash the lentils in a sieve under running water until the 
60 Soups 

water runs clear. Add the lentils to the pot with 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, 1112 hours. 
4.	Add the small white onions and continue cooking the soup 30 minutes. 5. Five minutes before serving add the soup noodles. When they are tender, pour the egg and lemon juice mixture into the simmering soup and turn off the heat immediately. Stir rapidly to form long egg strands. Taste for seasoning and serve with lemon slices and a light dusting of ground cinnamon.